Yu Sheng: When Salads are part of the Tradition
There is no shortage of good things to know about Singapore. Skyscrapers, international quality conferences, natural beauty – many more reasons you can visit Singapore. But there is another reason why you can visit this country. That is the salad! Not many people know that salad is one of the biggest traditions and attractions in Singapore. This special salad, made every Chinese New Year in the country, can be found in every restaurant. This salad made with its own ingredients and spices is unique in one word!
The name of the salad is ‘ Yu Sheng. ‘ The name is a combination of the two words ‘u’ or fish and ‘sheng’ or raw / life as the main ingredient is fish. Not something in common, somehow this salad is a legend for Singapore. The story of a Chinese couple is intertwined with this salad. So its roots are in China, so to speak. The Chinese couple was once caught in a storm. With nothing else at hand, they filled their stomachs with fish and vinegar. According to many, fishermen in the Chinese province of Guangzhou start eating this salad on the seventh day of the Chinese New Year, on the occasion of ‘Human Day.’
However, when this salad came to Malaysia or Singapore from China in 1930, it was not so glamorous. This salad was then made in Jiangmen style in small shops along the road. Raw fish, grated ginger, lettuce leaves, and specially prepared onions or tochu style where the buyer has to wrap the whole salad using lettuce leaves. Although it has always been in restaurants, people ate this salad the most on the day of human birth. The salad was considered to be food wrapped in good luck at that time!
The salad was like that until then. In the 1940s, Lok Ching Fat Seremban was the first to bring back the advanced and original style of Yu Sheng in Malaysia. All the differences that have come up in the salad so far are eliminated as much as possible at this time. Later, in 1964, the chefs of Singapore came up with a new and elegant salad style. At the time, these chefs were so popular in Singapore that they were nicknamed the “Four Heavenly Chefs.” The four were Lauyok Pui, Tham Wei Kai, Hui Cook Wei and Sin Leong. Among them, Lau and Tham died. But if you wish, you’ll still find 91-year-old Sean and 79-year-old Hui at the Red Star restaurant on River Valley.
However, these four have not started working with Yu Sheng from the beginning. They first started working as apprentices at Cathay Restaurant in Singapore. From there, he started working in different places. But they desired to popularize something. Chinese New Year is celebrated for 15 days, from January to February. Earlier, everyone used to put special food on the table. They thought of including Yu Sheng in that list of foods. Usually, the shopper at the roadside shop could mix the flavors and spices of his choice in the salad.
The four cooks thought of taking the matter a step further and taking it to the family. They thought that everyone in the family could mix this salad together. The chefs try to keep the salad the way it was made before. Where previously two types of sauces, sweet and sour, were used, a new sauce was made. And they think that this sauce is the soul of their salad.
In the end, the salad consisted of oranges, chili powder, salmon, vegetable oil, palm sauce, crackers and ground almonds. Most of which are considered lucky as food. Each of these elements was kept separate at that time. So that the family taking it can mix the salad of their choice.
It didn’t take long for the thought to come to mind. But in reality, it takes a long time for these four chefs to make what they want. The new Yu Sheng was launched in 1964 at Lai Wah Restaurant. Especially the idea of the festival makes Yu Shen more familiar to everyone. As there is good luck associated with each ingredient, the diners present started saying different verses as a blessing in making a salad. Soon Singaporeans are falling in love with this new dish. And with friends and family, he started organizing small festivals with Yu Sheng.
Over time, the identity and variety of the salad continue to grow. Since 1970, since the shape increased, everyone has started using chopsticks in salad containers. It was believed that the bigger the top of the salad, the better the luck. At this time, the process of celebrating the time by saying ‘Lo Hei’ started. And the tradition that started is still going on.
Still, everyone around the family started making a salad. As they mix each ingredient, they shout and pronounce specific words. Interestingly, those four cooks are now old. Surprisingly, one of the things they created is now one of Singapore’s oldest traditions!
Surprisingly, the price of the 1964 Usheng salad remains the same. However, the price has gone up a lot outside. Last year, a U-horn sold for 999$. However, the salad in the restaurant of those four cooks still costs only 80$. This salad is now popular in Hong Kong and many other countries worldwide.
But nothing but a great way for Yu Sheng to get to know each other and increase their sincerity. It also helps to create harmony between strangers and lesser-known people. Helps to spread a love for each other. The salad satisfies the eyes, nose and taste of people. Chef Hui is satisfied with the satisfaction of contributing to the popularity of such a food!